Rolex Perpetual 1908 Watch Review: A Fresh Perspective on Elegance

Drawing inspiration from the aesthetic charm of the original Oyster Perpetual watches, Rolex has unveiled its latest Perpetual 1908 collection at the Watches and Wonders 2023 event. Join us at Beautiful Watch World as we delve into an in-depth evaluation of the new Rolex Perpetual 1908 timepieces.

Introduction to the Rolex Perpetual 1908 Collection

The Rolex Perpetual 1908 made its debut at the prestigious Watches and Wonders 2023 trade show, taking the place of the discontinued Cellini watch collection. The name “Perpetual 1908” pays homage to the year when founder Hans Wilsdorf first started using the name “Rolex” as his brand’s identity on timepieces. According to an official representative from Rolex, the new Perpetual 1908 collection is exclusively crafted from rare and precious materials.

Upon introducing the initial pieces of the Perpetual 1908 collection, Rolex offers four new 39mm diameter watch models, available in either white gold Ref. 52508 (YG) or yellow gold Ref. 52509 (WG), accompanied by a choice of black or white dials, all paired with exquisite alligator leather straps. These new Perpetual 1908 watches exude a sophisticated demeanor, drawing inspiration from the first Oyster Perpetual watches introduced in 1931. However, they seamlessly integrate Rolex’s latest technological advancements, including the caliber 7140 movement.

Assessment of Rolex’s New Perpetual 1908 Watch Models

Design Insights

Rolex’s Perpetual 1908 watches boast a 39mm case diameter and a slender 9.5mm thickness, a significant improvement over the Cellini line, which had a thickness of over 12mm. The polished case is designed to withstand water pressure up to 50 meters.

Echoing the original Oyster Perpetual watches introduced in 1931, the new Rolex Perpetual 1908 models feature a bezel design with a curved and grooved section. The smoothly contoured ergonomic curves and beveled edges of the lugs give the watch a blend of vintage and contemporary aesthetics.

The dial of the Perpetual 1908 is also reminiscent of the iconic design elements from the 1931 Oyster Perpetual, with a small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock, simple stick hour markers, and Arabic numerals at 3, 9, and 12 o’clock positions. Rolex has opted for a gold sword-shaped minute hand and a specially designed hollow circular hour hand. The dial is protected by a domed sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective coating, faithfully reviving design elements that are considered heritage features of the 1931 Oyster Perpetual while imbuing the Perpetual 1908 with a contemporary flair.

The Rolex Perpetual 1908 is complemented by matte brown or black alligator leather straps with a lining of green calf leather and the new Dualclasp folding clasp. Crafted from either white gold or yellow gold, the new Dualclasp offers enhanced comfort by adapting to the wrist’s shape. With its symmetrical dual folding blades, it facilitates easy opening and closing, ensuring a secure strap fit.

Innovative Movement

The new Rolex Perpetual 1908 models feature a transparent case back with a grooved design in gold, showcasing the new Caliber 7140 movement, certified as a Superlative Chronometer.

Developed and manufactured entirely by Rolex, this new automatic movement incorporates the patented Chronergy escapement and Syloxi silicon hairspring. The escapement is mounted on a high-performance Paraflex shock absorber to enhance shock resistance. The open-worked Perpetual rotor is crafted from 18k rose gold with an optimized pivot. The movement’s architecture and efficiency grant the Caliber 7140 a power reserve of 66 hours and exceptional accuracy (a deviation of only -2/+2 seconds per day).

Unlike Rolex’s previous Caliber 3xxx generation movements, the new Caliber 7140 is adorned with captivating decorations, featuring Côtes de Genève patterns on bridges and an 18K gold rotor, exuding a powerful visual allure when observed through the case back.

Pricing

The 18k yellow gold Rolex Perpetual 1908 retails for $22,000, while the white gold variants are priced at $23,300.

Final Thoughts

The Rolex Perpetual 1908 collection masterfully blends classic and modern styles. Beyond making a remarkable impact at Watches and Wonders 2023, the launch of the Rolex Perpetual 1908 collection signifies a new milestone in Rolex’s pursuit of excellence in horology.

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